Machu Picchu: Part 2

July 24, 2015

The second day of the Great Machu Picchu Adventure was the big one. (This means kind of a long post, but I promise its chock full of pretty pictures)

I'd be all poetical like to say the day dawned bright and clear, but really we all reluctantly dragged our butts out of bed at 3:30 when the alarm went off. It was cold and dark in the main square where we met up with Jefferson and Mariana (Brazil) at 4:00. About 4:15 we started walking.

There was a 25 min walk down a fairly flat road starting at the bus terminal in town. That got us to a line of people waiting to go across the bridge to the main trail up the mountain

It was the first place to check ticket and passport. Tickets we had bought the night before. S/.128 (about $41 USD) was the fee for just Machu Picchu city, there was an extra fee to climb to the top of Wyna Picchu.

Waiting in line was the perfect time to munch our sack breakfasts we had received the night before. I had my cheese and ham breakfast roll and my peach juice box, leaving the cookies and banana for later.

We got through the line and across the bridge at 5:00am and started the trek up the mountain following the green arrows.

The trail is only 1.78 km long (1.1 miles) but is 390m elevation (1300ft). This translates to just about exactly an hour of stairs. Straight stairs. An endless Stairmaster by headlamp. The cool morning air did zero things to stop the sweat.

This is what we did.  For an hour.  Straight.

Closer to the top as the sky began to lighten the headlamp became unneeded, and the mountains were gorgeous in the dawn. We were pushing to get to the top to see the big view at sunrise, so I didn't take as long of a moment to enjoy it as I could have.

I wish I had, since the top only brought a half-hour long line-mob waiting to get through the gate, with hoards of people who paid to take the bus up the mountain pushing ahead in line. The advertized 'get to see Machu Picchu at sunrise' thing would definitely be from 30 feet down the trail.

Once through the gate (passport check and stamp on your ticket) the view was spectacular.

We had a 2ish hour guided tour that started at 7:00. It took us through about half of the circuit through the ruins, and I admit a lot of it went over my head. Dates and facts were coming rapid fire in Spanish and even though our guide was pretty easy to understand, I missed a lot.

That didn't detract at all from how amazing the ruins are. They were built by the Incas around 1450 and 70% original construction still exists. The refurbishment is replacing stones with ones exactly the same shape we were told, so it doesn't change the look at all. All of it was lovely granite.

Big blocks, little blocks, they were all used to make one wall without mortar in the middle

If this was a movie, now would be when the musical montage running around the ruins would happen. Instead you get a bunch of photos in a row. Just like the movie montage there will be more words after it though.

I actually like this picture for some reason.  I think it captures some of my essence

 

Accidental llama selfie, notice the butt between the two of us.  We didn't notice her until she walked up the steps between us

This one is in the running for ´favorite picture from Peru´

Llamas of Machu Picchu
(yep, they get their own title)

There are a bunch that just roam around grazing and getting followed by tourists with cameras. They certainally do fit in with the decor.

I admit I followed them for a bit so I could have a llama selfie too.

Especially since the baby was so flippin' cute.

Shay and I left the park around 10 to tinkle, eat some food where we wouldn't get yelled at, and hopefully find somewhere to nap. We didn't find anywhere clean enough or out of the way enough for that, but had a nice sit in the shade for a bit.

After going back in we found our way to the top of the tallest terraces we skipped on the tour, and found my favorite view.

The vibrant colors of the mountains against the bright green lawn and the shear vastness of the area just can't be described or captured in pictures unless you have an awesome National Geographic camera and lenses.

I found more llamas enjoying the afternoon and looking picturesque.

Then before heading to the exit, Shay and I each had our last PBJ bun we had prepped. While munching we made a friend.

I think she smelled the food, but stuck around for a bit after I wolfed the last of mine.

She was an incredibly docile creature, just wanted to hang out for a bit. Still it was a little disconcerting to have a rather large llama appear RIGHT next to you all of the sudden.

Sometimes you can chase a llama selfie all day, only to have one sneak up on you.

The hike back down took us 45 mins and 25 walking back to town.

View of Wyna Picchu from the top of the steps heading back to Aguas Calientes

We both had a wonderfully hot shower, and went to find food. Right next door we found a 4 course delicious meal for S/.15 which was exceptionally cheap for such a tourist town. It was the best tasting meal ever for two exhausted gals.

(photos of Aguas Calientes from the next morning, but here is where the photos fit logically with my storytelling)

A resupply train for the town came in the morning we left

Bed happened at 8:00.

The next morning we found some food and walked around town a bit. 11:15 we started the hike back to Hidroelectrica along the train tracks. We got another train selfie.

Walking in the daylight we realized we had walked right around Machu Picchu coming in and could see ruins from the tracks.

Last view of Machu Picchu from the trail

The ride back to Cuzco was just as long and windy, though our driver didn't have quite the same bat out of hell mentality. We knew what to expect this time though. A bathroom and my bed couldn't come soon enough when we got back.

Now I've got Machu Picchu checked off my bucket list, and a whole bunch of gorgeous memories and pictures.

Found a fun piece of graffiti under a trestle on the trail back

Machu Picchu: Part 1

Thursday the 23rd we started our big Machu Picchu adventure at 7am. The cab we took to our hotel from the bus station in Cuzco just happened to be driven by a tour guide. He offered us a 3 day 2 night package leaving the next morning for $125 USD which seemed pretty reasonable. We decided to take it.

The next morning we were told that we would have to carry everything we took with us on a 3 hour hike (we knew about the hike but had wrongly assumed that we'd be dropping things at the hostel in Aguas Calientes first.)

So right quick we repacked and each fit three days of adventure into our Flash 18 day packs.

We then hopped into the 12 person van to head up to Machu Picchu. After picking up more people along the way, we ended up with four guys from Chile, a Peruvian family of 5, a Brazilian couple, another Peruvian and his Mexican girlfriend, and us. Okay. Maybe it was a 15 passenger van...

Off we went on the 2ish hour drive.

Five and a half hours later we stopped for lunch with a half hour left to go.

The first part of the drive was on roads through the countryside with pretty views.

Then we got to a twisty (and beautiful) mountain road.

Our driver continued on these roads like a bat out of hell, and let me tell you, Disneyland has nothing on Peruvian roads and drivers.

The twisty road you see is what existed for the 2ish hours all the way down the mountain valley

After that fun adventure we got an hour of windy, washboarded, dusty dirt road on the edge of a cliff. Again, great views.

By this point there were some people clutching plastic bags and diving for open windows. I was very glad I'm not prone to carsickness.

We arrived at Hidroelectrica, a small train station in the middle of nowhere at 4:00. From there we proceeded to hike from there to Aguas Calientes, the town at the base of Machu Picchu. We just followed the train tracks until we got to town.

It was a beautiful hike, the scenery was amazing.

We only had one train pass us.

Attempted train selfie.  Two problems: the train wasn't going as fast as I thought and my head is too big.

Shay and I completed the ~12 km hike in 2.5 hours, finishing by headlamp.

Sunset above Peruvian mountains

In town we eventually found the rest of our van group as well as a guide who had our names on a piece of paper. It took a while, but we all eventually got placed in hostel rooms and got fed. We ended up in a 4 bed room with two of the Chilean guys, Cristobal and Alejandro. It was fun to talk with them, hear about Chile.

We also gave them their first taste of peanut butter (not a food that exists in Chile apparently). Neither had a favorable reaction.

Bedtime with alarms set for 3:30am to be ready to set out at 4am to start the long climb to the top.

Stay tuned for Machu Picchu: Part 2. I promise a tale of pain and triumph, beautiful pictures (lots of them), and llamas.

It's like a Mario Kart race that never ends

These are small town taxis called mototaxis.

Mostly they are blue and red, but there are also green and yellow varieties. Its like a four team go-kart race through the city.

There are many companies, and in an hour of sitting on the street corner one morning (long story) we determined that the letter before the number on each taxi refers to a specific company.  for example M=El Rayo (see photo below).  K is Pioneros and has a green stripe down the right side.

They rush everywhere on three wheels. Through town, between towns, in parking lots. They beep beep their clown horns to offer rides and to tell pedestrians and cars alike to watch out because they're coming through and not stopping. Even at 8 pm they rush around. I have no idea where they're all going. They seem to comprise 3/4 of the vehicles in town.

They are silly and awesome and have the steering system of a moped. Some are tricked out with stickers on the windshield and sides, my favorites have huge fins and spoilers on the back. Some have shark fins on the top.

The most bumpin´ ones had lights on the spoilers at night also.  Unfortunately they all managed to elude photo capture.

You learn quick to not get run over in the streets. And if they were all running over lines of floating coins and through rainbow surprise boxes it would almost look normal.

Going to Machu Picchu we went through a couple other small towns that had some cool colored ones.

Full Machu Picchu posts coming soon! Pinky swear.

La Cruz de Chanchamayo

July 12, 2015

Yesterday was Sunday so we had the day off. I had some me-time after breakfast and headed off walking up random streets behind town, hoping to find my way up to the cross at the top of the big hill you can see from town.

The end result was me getting sweaty and finding a bunch of dead ends.

But then I ran into my boss and his kids and after having juice with them in town (its just something you do here) he directed me to the proper staircase. Way too many steps and a not too long walk up a very steep road I found the top, the bathroom, and the cross.

So many steps

 It's rather impressive, and each diamond has a light bulb that comes on at night.

There's a couple other crosses and an alter at the top too.

The altar

The lady inside the altar, with some lovely flowers

There was a lovely breeze and a great view from the top. Several families came by while I was there and it seems to be a popular spot for teenage couples too. Also an old guy with a really floofy little dog.

View from the top of the cross

The La Merced church seen from way up high, and Rio Chanchamayo behind it

I stayed there sitting in the shade of the cross for several hours enjoying the day and watching the countryside burn.



I learned later from our small friend Jordan (explanation to follow) that it was burning pineapple fields to ready it for the next planting. Bright red flames were visible along the fire line and I had fun watching the progress.

Progress of the burned spots

Jordan was a kid that Shay acquired on her way up to meet me. We talked with him for a bit, he discovered the camera on her phone and went a bit crazy with it. We also have some gems of random video now.

I've found kids to be at the center of many of the most fun and memorable experiences in other countries. They are so curious and silly and don't have such judgemental looks when the language barrier springs up and you utterly fail at saying something.

Shay and I bought a fresh avocado and two buns for S/.1.50 total (~50 cents) cut the avocado and buns in half and each had a sandwich. Best possible end to the day ever.

Tour of Chanchamayo

July 5, 2015

After a couple days in Lima it was up and over the Andes to the town of La Merced.  We were at 9000 feet elevation at one point.  It was cold and snowy on the ground. Very Andean looking, go figure.

We did the tourist thing and did a tour in our free day before starting work. Chanchamayo is the region where La Merced is located.

It started at Puente (bridge) Kimiri, built in 1905 of wood, rock and eggs to get goods including pineapple and citrus from one side of the river to the other.

Then el Perfil Nativo Dormido (profile of a sleeping native).

His head is the second set of lumps from the right and he´s laying to the right.  There is a forehead, nose, and chin.  Use your imagination.

The mountains look like someone laying down. Legend is he was sick and traveled to this area where he was cured. On his way back he stopped to take a nap since he hadn't slept for 2 days and 3 nights and instead ended up sleeping forever.

La Confluencia del Rios was next, where Río Chanchamayo and Río Paucartambo combine into Río Perené.

It was a little community called Tankuy which is a Quechua (native) word meaning 'encontrar' (to find) since the two rivers find each other.

Up next was meeting Pepe Lucho.

He is a pacarana, a giant rodent found in parts of South America. They resemble the Paca, but are not actually related according to Wikipedia. He is super famous (for a pacarana) and has been in commercials down here for Inca Kola (tastes a bit like cream soda) and in the movie El Dorado. Neither Shay nor myself have actually seen it so we're going to try to watch it somehow while we're down here.

Selfie with a giant rodent!

The other pacarana was named Josefina. She's not famous, but we got to hold her.

Next to a native village, Ashaninka. They dressed us up in traditional garb, painted our faces (one stripe for the single ladies, two if you were married, and three for the guys which represented the three faces if the tiger) and taught us some native words.

We also danced to drumming with all the women in the village. The small girl in green ran straight to me and Shay to take our hands. We discovered no matter the language barriers all small children like to go 'one two three swiiing' when you have their hands.

After that we were strongly encouraged to purchase the crafts they make for tourists. I have a lovely black and red seed bracelet for S/.5 which is around $1.60.  Shay and I had a couple girls come up and ask to see money from our country. Unfortunately neither of us had any US currency on us. It was fun to answer all their questions about the US though.

We had lunch that came with a short boat ride. Basically they loaded us in the boat, motored 5 minutes up the river next to the restaurant, then turned and floated back down to whete we started. Not necessarily the most exciting boat ride I've been on, but it was pretty. How could it not be, since its in the jungle of Peru?

For lunch Shay and I ordered cesina con patacones, not actually knowing what cesina was. Try new things and all. Patacones (fried plantains) were known to me from Ecuador. Turns out cesina is pork. Good pork.

Last on the tour was la Catarata Velo de Novia (a catarata is a big waterfall) which was lovely. There was a bit of a walk up a trail to it.

We didn't have swim suits with us, I'm not sure it was quite warm enough for me to want to get in anyway.

Back to town then, having seen more Amazonian jungle. This parrot was outside the bathroom at the restaurant.

Also I held a blue and gold macaw at the native village.

Apparently it was a good day for holding exotic animals.