Jeep-Boat-Jeep

March 8, 2016

To get from La Fortuna to my next destination in Monteverde, my options included 7 hours with public buses, or for just a little more than bus fare would have been, two short shuttle rides and a boat trip across a lake, totalling around 3 hours.

Unsurprisingly I chose option #2.

I got picked up from my hostel at 8:30 and we were off. Arenal gave us a good view driving out of town, and shortly we got to the edge of the lake where we loaded into boats along with the rest of the shuttles that morning.

The lake crossing was about an hour, and very peaceful. The boat was wide and flat which didn't go super fast, but we felt almost no waves, and could walk around. The water, as usual, was beautiful blue against the green shrubbery on shore.

When we got far enough out in the lake to see Arenal, there was a veritable stampede of tourists with cameras to the back of the boat. I waited until the danger of losing an eye had passed to take my photo. I also didn't have to worry about anyone's head in the way.

I was sitting next to a group of four women, probably in their 60s, traveling together. All from Canada, now living on different cities but still in touch. And everyone had known each other at least 15 years, two were going on 40 years of friendship. They were fun to chat with, all fun spunky women who reminded me of the ladies in my own extended family who think age is just a number.

Once on the far shore, the boats unloaded and we found our second bus, according to numbers our first driver had given us.

Driving along, we went past a bunch of windmills, Costa Rica is mostly run on clean energy sources. I thought they were super cool to see up close, so I was looking at them as everyone else was trying to get one last volcano picture in the distance.

As my dad said once while driving through Eastern Washington one time, they were kind of War of the Worlds looking, looming up next to the road.

Speaking of which...
http://xkcd.com/556/

Before I knew it I was dropped in Monteverde right at the door of my next adventure.

Stay tuned! Its a good one.

Hiking up a Volcano- La Fortuna and Cerro Chato

March 7, 2016

The little town of La Fortuna lies in the shadow of Volcan Arenal.

Looking up the main drag

Anywhere you look there's tours advertized for zip lining, horseback rides to volcanos and waterfalls, hot springs tours, and more. I didn't have too much interest in paying a bunch for a tour, but I was rather interested in hiking Cerro Chato, an extinct volcano next to Arenal.

All the reviews said it was hard, steep and muddy, but worth it. After doing it, I agree with that evaluation.

I woke up early and managed to eat and leave the hostel before 7, which I was pretty proud of. Getting to the start of the hike meant an hour and a half walking uphill out of town. Most of it was paved, but it was still uphill.

Fun graffitis along the way. I thought these toucans had a slightly posessed look to them.

Horse parking. I laughed.

Eventually I got to the resort which is the start. I ignored the 'pay at reception' sign, and started up the path.

Little path to walk up

View from a little picnic area out over the valley

Regular signs were appreciated, I always worry that I'll get off the path without realizing it and end up in someone's backyard.

20 mins up a paved jeep road/cow path I got to a little house where the guy made me pay. I guess they've dealt with weasly ones like me before.

Paved steps leaving the hut, they were making the hike pretty easy so far

$12 lighter, I was on my way. And the rest of the hike ended up being easier than I had anticipated. It wasn't necessarily the steepest trail, but was the kind of soil that could make mud easily. It also looked like it would be a river in rainstorms, and ravines had washed out of the path, making hummocky topography.

Once into the forest, sometimes the roots that held soil to make steps were waist height. This was the difficulty that many talked about in the reviews, but I didn't find it too challenging, just a good thigh workout.

Kind of hard to tell from the picture, but the mud canyon I'm standing in is solidly shoulder height.

An hour and a half found me at the top of the trail, with mist rolling in thicker.

Then to get down to the lake meant 20 minutes on a muddier, legitimately steep hillside. All hands were on deck (literally both hands being used to climb down) and there was definite mud all over. I managed to not use my butt on the way down, though others were not so lucky.

It was so worth it though, the lake was beautiful. Dissolved minerals give it a very green water.

First glimpse coming down through the trees

Mud caked shoes finally at the lake

The mist was rolling in and out, and every now and again there was blue sky. I went for a swim. Cold water hater that I am, I enjoyed it immensely. Once in (I won't comment on how long that actually took) the water was brisk. It never got to the point where I didn't notice the cold, but it was nice rather than chilling.

Swimming in a volcano crater!

There was a pizote friend that came around. He got named Charlie. And added to my animal count for the day.

I wonder how many exotic animal selfies I have so far...

There were a bunch of animals to add to bingo actually, a ton of birds out during the morning walk, and I saw a toucan. Lots of butterflies, a red and blue lizard, and a squashed toad on the road. Though he was nothing to write home about, so I'm not sure why he gets to be in this post.

I started back after a bit at the lake, and the scramble up the mud was actually easier than coming down.

I got to the top just in time for Arenal to come all the way out of the clouds for a photo.

Volcano above, lake below

Then it was mud valleys backwards. I stopped at the little house for lunch.

At the bottom of the trail is La Fortuna waterfall, but I couldn't justify to myself another $12 to go down and then back up 550 steps just for some waterfall swimming. Instead I headed back to the main road and went to the free swimming hole instead.

Arenal was still showing off

It was complete with rope swing and guys to do back flips off of it. I went a little farther down to a rockier area and found a pool to submerge in. The cool water was lovely on tired feet.

There was a really cool rock formation downstream too. It looks like basalt.

Once home, I rinsed out sweaty clothes (read: got into the shower fully clothed), got food, and flopped down never to move again. Except to refill my water bottle a couple times. Between everything, I figure I did about 10 miles total. Not too shabby. And writing this the day after, I can attest to involuntary groans when I stand up. My thighs feel the mileage and elevation.

Lovely mural walking home

Next up: Monteverde and the cloud forest in search of the elusive quetzel.

Also a shrimp selfie

Golfito, Costa Rica

February 29-30, 2016

Crossing the border from Panama was pretty uneventful, after I made an unexpected round trip back to David to retrieve the camera and wallet I forgot in the lockers that is. If my head wasn't attached... Luckily for me I remembered before crossing international borders, and it was only an hour ride back to David instead of 5.

It was an ugly, hot dusty border town, but easy enough to get stamped in and out, no questions asked. A couple buses later I pulled into Golfito. It's a little banana port on the coast, and was the favorite stop of a Coast Guard friend who did a tour there. So I decided to see what it had to offer.

I got settled in my little hostel cottage, then caught a bus into 'town' to find an ATM for local currency. The town stretches 5km along a little road, and the driver was nice enough to drop me right in front of the bank at the far end of town. (That's one thing, cross the border and the Ticos are instantly way friendlier than Panameños)

I walked back along the water towards my friend's favorite restaurant, and was treated to an incredible sunset over the bay.

It continued until after I sat to eat.

I had the greatest chicken parmesan, mashed potatos and veggies. Then I watched the downpour that started up. A taxi back to my hostel, and it was well deserved bedtime.

That night I got a proper Costa Rican welcome in the form of a scorpion on the bathroom wall at 2am. He just sat there not moving, but I still had bad scorpion dreams for the rest of the night. There is no picture since I really wasn't too keen on going back to play photographer.

The next day I went to town again, wandered and used internet. I also found the post office and sent home a box that I'd been carrying with me for weeks with my pottery and other souvenirs. It was a relief to get that sent off.

This little guy was hanging out in the field during breakfast. He is an agouti.

They're funny little guys, and I think their back legs were built a little too big for their bodies.

Walking through town this sign cracked me up. I think he's supposed to be a worker with a shovel, but I thought it looked more like caveman with spear. 'Caution Neanderthal crossing'

The sunset was spectacular again that night.

And the next day I headed for San Jose, not to see the capital but because it was a good central place to get my bearings before jumping off again towards La Fortuna and Volcan Arenal.

Verdict for Golfito: not much to do there, but its spectacular right around 5:30. Go for a day or two.

Bambu Hostel

February 28, 2016

Before crossing into Costa Rica I spent a night in David, the second biggest city in Panama. I have nothing to say about David. My hostel for the night was really cool though!

In the middle of a residential street, it has a bit of the jungle in its backyard.

You walk out of the main house, and are greeted by colorful plants.

Through them, you find the pool.

It was wonderful to soak in the late afternoon heat.

Past the pool is the dorm hut. On stilts, its a little tree house bungalow With hammocks hanging under it.

There's also a little bar, all connected by stone walkways through the plants.

There's a lovely feeling of seclusion no matter where you are.

Also this little guy comes every morning for breakfast.  My guess is she finds lots of food that guests leave out.  She tasted my toe as I was watching her amble around, so now I can say I´ve been bit by a coati.

I also discovered this on a walk to the grocery store.  It made me stop dead in my tracks and squeak.

I honestly don't know if they were going for squirtle, but there he.  And Panama just gained a point or two in my book.