Hiking up a Volcano- La Fortuna and Cerro Chato

March 7, 2016

The little town of La Fortuna lies in the shadow of Volcan Arenal.

Looking up the main drag

Anywhere you look there's tours advertized for zip lining, horseback rides to volcanos and waterfalls, hot springs tours, and more. I didn't have too much interest in paying a bunch for a tour, but I was rather interested in hiking Cerro Chato, an extinct volcano next to Arenal.

All the reviews said it was hard, steep and muddy, but worth it. After doing it, I agree with that evaluation.

I woke up early and managed to eat and leave the hostel before 7, which I was pretty proud of. Getting to the start of the hike meant an hour and a half walking uphill out of town. Most of it was paved, but it was still uphill.

Fun graffitis along the way. I thought these toucans had a slightly posessed look to them.

Horse parking. I laughed.

Eventually I got to the resort which is the start. I ignored the 'pay at reception' sign, and started up the path.

Little path to walk up

View from a little picnic area out over the valley

Regular signs were appreciated, I always worry that I'll get off the path without realizing it and end up in someone's backyard.

20 mins up a paved jeep road/cow path I got to a little house where the guy made me pay. I guess they've dealt with weasly ones like me before.

Paved steps leaving the hut, they were making the hike pretty easy so far

$12 lighter, I was on my way. And the rest of the hike ended up being easier than I had anticipated. It wasn't necessarily the steepest trail, but was the kind of soil that could make mud easily. It also looked like it would be a river in rainstorms, and ravines had washed out of the path, making hummocky topography.

Once into the forest, sometimes the roots that held soil to make steps were waist height. This was the difficulty that many talked about in the reviews, but I didn't find it too challenging, just a good thigh workout.

Kind of hard to tell from the picture, but the mud canyon I'm standing in is solidly shoulder height.

An hour and a half found me at the top of the trail, with mist rolling in thicker.

Then to get down to the lake meant 20 minutes on a muddier, legitimately steep hillside. All hands were on deck (literally both hands being used to climb down) and there was definite mud all over. I managed to not use my butt on the way down, though others were not so lucky.

It was so worth it though, the lake was beautiful. Dissolved minerals give it a very green water.

First glimpse coming down through the trees

Mud caked shoes finally at the lake

The mist was rolling in and out, and every now and again there was blue sky. I went for a swim. Cold water hater that I am, I enjoyed it immensely. Once in (I won't comment on how long that actually took) the water was brisk. It never got to the point where I didn't notice the cold, but it was nice rather than chilling.

Swimming in a volcano crater!

There was a pizote friend that came around. He got named Charlie. And added to my animal count for the day.

I wonder how many exotic animal selfies I have so far...

There were a bunch of animals to add to bingo actually, a ton of birds out during the morning walk, and I saw a toucan. Lots of butterflies, a red and blue lizard, and a squashed toad on the road. Though he was nothing to write home about, so I'm not sure why he gets to be in this post.

I started back after a bit at the lake, and the scramble up the mud was actually easier than coming down.

I got to the top just in time for Arenal to come all the way out of the clouds for a photo.

Volcano above, lake below

Then it was mud valleys backwards. I stopped at the little house for lunch.

At the bottom of the trail is La Fortuna waterfall, but I couldn't justify to myself another $12 to go down and then back up 550 steps just for some waterfall swimming. Instead I headed back to the main road and went to the free swimming hole instead.

Arenal was still showing off

It was complete with rope swing and guys to do back flips off of it. I went a little farther down to a rockier area and found a pool to submerge in. The cool water was lovely on tired feet.

There was a really cool rock formation downstream too. It looks like basalt.

Once home, I rinsed out sweaty clothes (read: got into the shower fully clothed), got food, and flopped down never to move again. Except to refill my water bottle a couple times. Between everything, I figure I did about 10 miles total. Not too shabby. And writing this the day after, I can attest to involuntary groans when I stand up. My thighs feel the mileage and elevation.

Lovely mural walking home

Next up: Monteverde and the cloud forest in search of the elusive quetzel.

Also a shrimp selfie