Saturday, April 16, 2016

Hostel Review: Casa Verde, Santa Ana

March 30- April 8, 2016

So basically I love my hostel in Santa Ana too much to not write about it. I can only hope maybe someday someone will stumble across this post while researching El Salvador, and stay at Casa Verde because of it. And it will be well deserved, because this was the best hostel I have found in 9 months of traveling. Hands down.

I called from San Salvador after having my plans change unexpectedly, a little desperate to secure a bed for the night. I got an enthusiastic welcome from the owner Carlos over the phone, and when I arrived he greeted me by name.

By the time my first tour was over I already didn't want to leave.

The courtyard was plant filled with hammocks around the edges, offering shady places for lounging and a picnic table for eating and hanging out.


There were two kitchens to use, both were big, clean, and actually stocked with dishes. There were pots and pans, lots of cooking utensils, cutting boards, knives that were actually sharp, and a whole cupboard of shared spices. I cooked real food for the first time in a long time instead of just pasta with tomato sauce and maybe a chopped onion.


The lounge area had comfy couches, surround sound, and 6 binders full of movies to watch.


And there was a pool. Well kept and clean, slightly warm from being in the hot sun all afternoon, and two balls to play with or shoot at the basket ball hoop mounted on the wall next to the pool.




I sadly forgot to get a picture of my room, but it was just as wonderful. The dorm was huge with 6 single beds, all with spotlessly white sheets and a blanket. Each had a bedside table, a nightlight, another outlet, and a personal fan mounted on the ceiling aimed down at the bed. Each had an assigned locker, and there was a plug and two USB ports inside the locker, so you could charge electronics while they were safe. All for a $10 price tag.

There was also good wifi throughout the hostel, a rooftop terrace, and a shared computer. Homemade lasagna was available for meals, and there was a big bag of ice in the freezer. Also a water dispenser for as much water as you needed. Basically everything you could want.

And on top of all that, Carlos was amazing. He was in and out of the hostel during the day, and there every evening, ready to talk about your day, plans, or offer advice if you couldn't find something on the wall with extensive maps and bus schedules. He went above and beyond as an owner to make sure everyone had a fantastic time. I used a bit of the Prego sauce and parmesan cheese he had to make chicken parm one night (it was delicious), and shared the brownies I made that night in return. He managed to acquire a couple movies for me before I left.

And to top it off gave me and some other gals a ride to the bus stop when we left. The only other hostel where I've ever gotten a ride from the owners was Kingbird in Cali, and its my other top hostel this trip. I think the kind of owner definitely says something about the kind of hostel they run.

Carlos: hostel owner extraordinaire
I had been planning 3 days in Santa Ana and ended up staying 10, and was still sad to leave. It was such a treat to stay at Casa Verde, and made my journey that much more awesome.

Friday, April 15, 2016

Ataco: Ruta de las Flores

April 7, 2016

My last day trip from Santa Ana before I (sadly) had to watch it depart in the rear view mirror took me to Ahuachapan (so fun to say, a-WACHA-pan) and Ataco on the Ruta de las Flores, flower route, which is a collection of little towns supposedly with flowers painted all around. Juayua was also on that list, though it didn't seem all that flowery to me. Ataco made up for it.

I stopped over briefly in Ahuachapan before finding my connecting bus, just long enough to stroll through the market and see the church.



I found some cute mural animals next to where I got ice cream.


He is my favorite

Then to Ataco, which was adorable and quiet.

Immediately it lived up to its Flower Route name

I followed signs along the cobblestone roads to the Mirador de la Cruz, or cross viewpoint.

I walked past a sweet little church, up a dusty path, and ended up in someone's backyard before finding what I was looking for. It was a wonderful view of the whole town.




I got chased off from my quiet contemplation by little biting bugs that left welts on my ankles, but it was time for lunch anyway. I had tacos and a quesadilla at a cute little Mexican place.

Then a little town wandering, the central park and church, and perusing the many craft shops lining the streets.


Main church in town.
There were many more colorfully painted houses to admire.





love, peace, harmony, life, hope
After a nice bit, I caught the buses back to Santa Ana, and dozed on the way satisfied with another cute town checked off the list.

The melody of your gaze dances to the chords of my soul
No calm sea has made an expert sailor

Monday, April 11, 2016

Slugbug!

So this post is months late.  I kept waiting for a time to post, then found more bugs, then my photos got corrupted, TWICE, so I'm just getting around to it now.  It applies most strongly to the South American countries, but Central America has some gems too.

The slugbug game is ridiculously easy in South America.  Especially Peru.

Like every 10th vehicle is a slugbug, and they're all older than I am. By about 40 years.

This is a photo project that started 3 months ago. **Make that 10 months**

So you've got your white and beige. Different shades of white depending on the dirt levels. Some sweet shade accents too.

The blank white space was for the next photo I took of them, but I didn't find one in time.  Oops.
So you've got your green bugs. Different shades. There were some real cool beetle-shiny ones.


Then there's your blues.  Again, some super fun beetle looking ones.

Please note how awesome the lights on the front of this one are
Sky blue is a popular color choice, and there are some beautiful shades.


Red is a popular choice.  There's the shiny ones, there's the dirty ones.  Dark red, cherry red...

Also note that Hakuna Matata is written on the windshield
On to the more exciting things you find, shiny is also a popular choice.  Silver, gold, you name it.  There was one that Shay and I decided was 'champagne avocado' in Peru.


Beautiful sunshine yellow ones are more common than you'd think.  The top right one killed two birds with one stone since I got the awesome graffiti winged cow too.  The photo was taken about 6 seconds before the car drove away.


Then there's all the times I found two bugs parked right next to each other.  There were more times I didn't get photos of for sure.


Then there's this gem.  I walked 10 minutes back up the hill from the bus stop in Taganga one morning before diving in order to get the shot.

Dented hood, busted out lights, rear wheels totally flat, AND a convertible.  Priceless
Even more priceless, was this one in La Merced.  There was an audible gasp when I saw it.  Then I had to figure out how to photograph it without being super obvious to the lady still in said car.

Why don't these drive around the US?!
Thats a taste of the crazy freaking awesome ones that are driving around.

These are the rest, at least the ones I was lucky enough to get pictures of.

Husky colors!  And awesome paint job.
Peru written on the hood, flames on the side...
Speaking of flames...
And then there's this one.  The picture doesn't quite capture the brilliant color.  Plus it was a leather soft-top.  Oy.
This was my favorite picture I got.  Crazy design, lime green and shiny.  I was so excited when I saw it a block away and had time to get my camera out of my bag.
This gem is from Nicaragua. I love that there are two heart stickers on the front, and the scrap square from around them is on the side.  Also, something about JEZZUS is written in small letters on the left of the back window.
There have been two sightings of new slugbugs in total. **This is up until Panama, in Central America I've seen way more new ones, relatively speaking. They're not as interesting though**

One red, actually following an old green one down the streets of Bogota.  I didn't get my camera in time, and then insult to injury it turned around and drove BACK down the street past me and I missed it AGAIN. The other was bright yellow in Cali, and I think it drove past me the next day while I was on the bus.  Again, camera half out when it disappeared into the traffic.  If it wasn't the same, there have been 3 sightings, but I don't think there's two new yellow ones driving around the same part of town.

Here's the picture I got of one (the fourth in 7 months) when I was in Bogota, after chasing it down at a red light. If you use your imagination, you can see its curve and back wheel in the left blur of the photo. It was silver. If that helps.


And finally, in Panama City I found this, and I think I won slugbugs for all time.

All in a line, awesome convertible, AND rainbow colors.  *mike drop*

Friday, April 8, 2016

Volcán Santa Ana

April 4, 2016

The day after waterfalls in Juayua, I managed to haul myself out of bed before 7am to go hike up a volcano. Trying to convince myself all the while that I'd be happy once I was actually there. Our group was the same six from the day before.


We had an hour and a half on the bus, and for most of it I dozed to the sounds of salsa music coming through badly balanced speakers.

We drove around to the other side of Coatepeque, and were afforded a fantastic view of the lake. I however, did not get a photo of it.

Once at the park, we had an hour and a half to wait before the tour started at 11. I don't know why the one bus there in the morning arrives so long before the one mandatory guided tour, but that's how it works. So we hung out and ate pupusas. There was a great view too.


The valley all laid out in front of us

At 11 we set off. The other group of boys there for the hike had a truck, so we shuttled the couple km down the road to the actual trail head instead of walking. No one was opposed to saving time so we'd have longer at the top.

Back of a pickup, still the best way to see the sights
The hike was an hour and a half up. It was a rather dusty trail since it hasn't rained in 2 months, but pretty views and scenery. We learned from Jonathan our guide that Santa Ana last erupted in 2005 with gas and ash, and Izalco, the sweet cinder cone next to us last erupted 1966.

Izalco and the Casa Cristal guest houses below it
The trail wasn't too difficult. It was lots of up the whole time but not too much was stupid steep.



Really pretty scenery too.




And the view from the top was absolutely worth it.


The lake in the bottom is a gorgeous seafoam color from the sulfur deposits, and doesn't look real. Surrounding it is a 300m deep crater that's full of beautiful layering.


Steam was rising all around off the lake, and when the wind calmed, you could hear the bubbling from down below.

The light spot on the left side is where the water was roiling.
Over the other side of the rim was Lago Coatepeque off in the distance.

Two volcanos, two lakes inside of the craters
Too soon, we had to head back down. But not before a lot of photos were taken. Cue photo montage.











And then we had an hour and a half to wait on the side of the road for the one bus back to Santa Ana at 4. Again, not sure why we couldn't stay up at the top longer, but life goes on.

Fun plant on the way down
And one last view of Izalco
All in all, a very worthwhile day, and I'm glad I dragged my butt out of bed for it.